Thom Browne is nothing but a spectacle, consistently providing jaw-dropping moments on the runway. For Spring/Summer 2023 — which was womenswear-centric at Paris Fashion Week — the American designer welcomed his usual perfected chaos to the French city, and it was a standout moment of the week. For his SS23 menswear, which debuted back in June, Browne got its kink on by fetishizing punk undertones. Jockstraps, anchor-shaped muzzles, exposed underwear, chokers and more fluttered between tweed, whereas SS23’s womenswear couldn’t be further away from this concept.
Instead, we’re treated to full Browne madness and glamor; the ideal combination for an eye-catching moment. Kicking off with a baroque meets Eastern gown worn over a lace dress in red with a ruffled collar (in turn tapping into the big Renaissance trend), we’re soon greeted by a man wearing a signature Browne tailoring ensemble, subverting traditions with a pleated skirt. Perhaps him holding a stool implies we should sit down and take note of what’s to come, as 57 more looks begin to unfold and bring the theatrics.
His signature white, red, and blue stripe motif is translated into a three-tier gown, buttoning at the neck and cascading down the body like a waterfall of triumph. Pastel tones, royal purple, metallic gold, navy blue, white, and much more painted coats that doubled as dresses, almost like an army of similar garments each bearing their own signature. From stripes to floral appliqué, sheer (worn by Michaela Jaé Rodriguez of POSE fame) to sportier renditions branded with collegiate team numbers on the rear, this collection was proof that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
Likewise, a slew of blazers — again in a rainbow of pastel — grew structures from their rears, spreading like wings on the models. Browne’s dog bag was materialized on a dress as a print, now appearing alongside boned corset waists and a skirt that could give a fairground carousel a run for its money, while later plenty of circles adorned a wider variety of energetic tailoring, each differing from the next. From a Mr. Blobby colorway to hues fit for Easter, Browne understood the memo for Spring/Summer 2023 — inject fun, bring tailoring to new heights, and don’t take things too seriously.
To conclude, Browne ushered in ideologies taken from his menswear — once again on Rodriguez, the clothes ranged from a shirt fit for a jester, trousers paneled with circles, and an incredibly-exposed set of undergarments, all presented in a pink car being carried by four men. Take a look at the SS23 collection from Thom Browne above, and find more Paris Fashion Week SS23 content across Hypebeast.
Elsewhere, GmbH brought South Asian beauty and culture to PFW.
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