Having embarked on a new menswear adventure for Spring/Summer 2023, ZEGNA had a tall order to follow with its Winter 2023 collection, which debuted earlier today as part of Milan Fashion Week.
But as expected from Alessandro Sartori, ZEGNA delivered. With the colder season in sight, the luxury Italian House put functional textures at the forefront of its designs, harnessing the power of fabrics and knitwear with three-dimensional designs, architectural structures, and layering working in harmony.
You may not see this from ZEGNA’s first few tailored numbers, but from Look 12 we start to understand its seasonal vision. Boulcé is woven together finely to create a bumpy polo sweater, with collars darting left and right at 90-degree angles for a contemporary update to the menswear essential. The same goes for the trousers — a rather traditional pair of woven cream slacks are transformed into something fit for today, as the legs puddle on top of new leather shoes.
That polo piece is later elevated, growing in form and function. Now served in a camel waffle knit, the piece is chunky and padded, softening the sharp collar. More bouclé grows all over an earthy sweater, using hints of brown, khaki, and gray in a melange mixture, before elements of the collection become more geometric and retro in their tastes.
For example, red and orange structures combine on a multi-textured mock-neck jumper, while various stitching patterns weave together a loose blue roll-neck sweater. Altogether, there’s a fun, retro undertone to much of the Winter 2023 offering, however, in true ZEGNA form, formalities are added.
Camel tones comprise plenty of coats, jackets, and blazers, coming in wool, cashmere, and incredibly premium leather. It is here that ZEGNA creates its contemporary menswear uniform, fit for relaxing in, taking business, and doing everything in between.
Take a look at ZEGNA Winter 2023 in the gallery above, and find more of Hypebeast’s Milan Fashion Week FW23 content here.
Elsewhere, Giorgio Armani has you covered for all seasons.
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